Дикий Мадагаскар, 3000км Екстрима!

Madagascar Day 1: Flying to Tana Madagascar didn't feel like a chore at all, although there's 30+hrs, it was relatively care free. And I must say, someone is defenatly praying for me as I had no hotel accommodation or a way or a desire to get to the city, I met a polish girl named Kasia, that offered a stay at a near by St. Joseph College., Making it too easy. Staying in the airport or 1 mile to a near by hotel was a bad idea after-all as it seems to look more like some ghetto venezuelan bus station with lights out after Mid Night! Make Stars look pretty though! My rough Polish skills came into play once again, as 'Kasia' was much help in setting my first steps in a crazy backwards country. If compared, Peru seems like an organized walk in the park! Day 2: Was a disaster with pleasantly unique scenery and defenatly crazy unique experience! Even though I woke up at 6am I was able to finish with everything and get out of town only by 13:00! And what a relief it was to get out of Tana! It took a taxi 2 hours to get into the city, and after rental, it took me another 2 hr to get out! There's only one road out towards south and it is shared by everyone: bikes, cars, motos, zebus, wood carts, pousse-pousse, people, dogs, kids playing, handy-caps on wheel chairs, bazaar right off the road selling stuff right on the road. I can't describe the madness. It's like a sold out concert with no music, lots of dust, bad smell, and pollution. It would be possibly faster to walk! I could not film the whole cluster fuck as people are right next to you in the crowd along with taxis, buses, chickens, dogs, and god else knows what this Antananarivo, as i call it,'Tana Traffic Salad' may contain, so it's high robbery danger! Don't get scared off though! You must experience this...Once! As soon as I got out of town I started to enjoy. The ride was long but pleasant, as there so much unique things to see along the way, with colorful scenery and winding roads! I got a lot of looks, waves and even smiles , the further I got from the town as I defenatly stood out with a GoPro mounted on my helmet! So I had to settle in Antsirabe for the night as it gets dark quick! I have 2 options, hustle and catch up tomorrow, meaning 9+ hrs on the bike or take out one extra day I have reserved! Perhaps I'll take a second one, so I won't miss the beauty of a country by rushing myself forward! Day 3: Day started early: as in 6am, but yet again I could not hit the road until like 8:30. The bike wouldn't start for a good hour, who knew it was lacking fuel since I filled up before the night end. Well some local smart ass has sucked the fuel out, good thing I had a bit extra to get me to the nearest gas station. Off I go, not so fast, police check. They didn't bother me much, was actually a fun encounter, it is beneficial to wear camouflaged clothes, as I looked like army to everyone around! The ride to Miandrivazo was an exiting one, and I was making good time! On the way, and I hope I got it on film, I hit herds of Zebu(cow) and swarms of locus! Crazy experience! Clouds of locus hitting my face and body like little rocks, it was like riding in a hale storm of insects! Zebu wasn't hurt too bad, and the Shepard just laughed at the whole thing. Mountain curves, multiple villages on the way made it entertaining 4 hours, which is a record time on what I ride, with multi stops to breath in culture of the country. So I decide to continue on. The road was somewhat straight and it had started to warm up! So by the time I became a bit board, the road through some pot holes and crazy bridge with holes on it! I got it on film it was like a Malagasy roller-coaster! At about 16:30 as I looked on the GPS and the sunset looking amazing, I got exited, as I was making it to the Alle of The Baobabs for perfect sunset shots, so I halla'd ass. I kid you not, 15km prior to my dream and reason I'm in madagascar I run out of Gas, in the middle of no where! I was so exited that I burned through it all extremely fast, including my reserve can of gas. Time to practice my French. I ended up asking a passing by local to buy me some gas, and they were nice enough to do so at my expanse! While I was waiting, 25 minutes, which seem like forever, a crowd of local village kids joined around me as I tried to put the gas pipe to reserve,which this bike apparently has not, and unsuccessfully kick start the bike. I bet this was a best show of the day, as everyone around me found it hilarious! The local lady with gas came back to my luck and I actually made it just in time to 'The Alle' to feast my eyes as I drove towards the sunset, but not in time for my camera, as it was too dark for a photo up! I hope on the way back I'll be more lucky! Dark drive to Morondava, though short, did suck. There's no lights of any kind and still same madness on the streets! Found a bungalow, had a good dinner and a well deserved Beer....two! I needed it! SKOL! Made me think of Brazil! After the tough day I hit the Indian Ocean...I had to! The stars were so bright, with Milky-Way and moonshine, which you'll never see in the states, since there's limited to none light pollution here! The highlight of it all was the magnificent reflection of the moon in the waves and a dip in the Indian ocean which washed my disappointments of the day away! Day 4: What a wonderful day! As always it started early, 4am this time, and not hustle free! I checked oil, and since its a 2 stroke, it's burning out, bad! I checked out all the gas stations and none have it! The shelves are empty! Poor country poor me! I said to myself if Tsingy is the last thing I'll do on this trip, than be it, I'll be putting scooter motor oil in that mother.... So I leave half of my stuff at the hotel since I'm coming back, and had off onto a dirt road! On the way I meet sunrise at the 'Alle of Baobab' and 'Baobab in love'. The further in the forest the more threaterous it gets and the nicer people get! I got so many smiles and waves and just pure curiosity that it warms my heart. At first I thought back to Morocco where you take picture of anything, they ask for money! So wrong of me to think so! These people are humble, and they just love to see their image in the photo! I feel a bit ashamed of not wanting to be hustled, now I feel more comfortable being crowded around. It's not good for me as I gave away my last gums, candy and waffles! I will have to start giving away beef jerky now! Reminds me of Amazon, Peru! Hehe! Anyhow, the road is tough and I had at list 3 or 4 close calls, before I stopped and lunched, and well ran out of water, half way to nowhere! I had to use my water filter to get more out of some lake! Not bad at all, and still alive! After the break I felt invincible and that's when it hit me... Before I say it I have to note that the road is rough and it's 8+ hours so road gets to you, as in drains your energy and concentration. So here we go, here's my crash (too bad my camera was off, cause Im not repeating this one): After the sharp, fast turn, to my total surprise, I see an Animal in my pass, so I got 3 choices: steep hill with bushes to the right, a huge ditch to the left, and Zebu with big horns straight up! Think Fast! Well I chose the 1st option, but ended up picking all 3, in the correct consistency... I think. I ride up the hill like a mad man, hoping the bushes will slow me down, I was right, but it didn't end there as I started to slide down the hill sideways directly into the zebu! After I hit the poor thing it runs off scared...moooooo... and I fall right into the ditch with the bike landing on top of me! The motorcycle is light, but its a bit hard to get up from a Yoga position, for which they yet have no name. Aftermath is cut up fingers and ripped pants, the bike started fine, actually as crazy as it sounds, and as it was, I got off easy, thank God! On and on I go, passing crazy roads and curious villagers as to them I must look like Indiana Jones or what not. I get spoiled with attention and crowds of locals everywhere I go! After couple of fun and unique river crossings, as in bike on the canoe, I arrive at my destination so early (16:00) that I got a chance to walk the Petit Tsingy, sleep and do Grand Tsingy tomorrow, therefore saving a day. Looking forward to the rock climbing, since for once I won't be riding the bike for hours! But I do need to take my guide on the back as I did today, which is a bit tricky, but it is a Madagascar way, you pay you ride, no one has money, sad, but true! Oh, I forgot to mention, after all the crazy things happening today, I was able to find a 2 stroke Motorcycle oil in Bela Sur Tsirighina river crossing. I will stock up with more at the same place on the way back, as this oil is rarity! So lucky, lets hope it continues! Off I go to the outdoor shower with the Mosquitos! Day 5: So here we go, I wake up early and since I got used to starting the bike, there's no more stalling. I go to the Tsingy Office, pay the fee for the 6 hr route (100g Areales+ 52g for tsingy petit and park fees) and off we go onto 15km pebble road as my plan says! Well I would call it more likely 15 km of hell and no road, with my guide in the back saying road's: 'bad', 'very bad' and 'not so good' and just laughing historically when we make it through 'very bad' in one piece! He must've been scared shitless, but he did tell me it was one cool ride. Fun fun and tiresome! After that madness we got Grand Tsingy, which consisted of forest walk with white and brown lemurs and birds, cave climbs, crawls and tight squeezes and Tsingy climb! Just Amazing and breathtaking, the whole experience! It was one of the most unique treks through cave, forest and rocks I have done thus far in my life. 10km in 6 hours! Unbelievable experience! But now I have to ride back on the hells road while tired! I drank like 4 litters of water and since it was sweating hot and challenging I only pissed once! We make it back to Belampaka Village alive and I notice a flat tire! So after this kid helps me find gas and a pump, for a tip (little hustlerer), the tire is still flat! Another disappointment as I'm told the nearest repair shop is in Belar Sur Tsirinhi (120km of dirt) or as far as back in Morondova! Fuck! Ups and downs every day...thats why they call it 'adventure'... if it was easy, everyone would be able to do it... I got comfortable with locals, as I get nothing but curiosity and smiles, then I found a guy who knows a guy, that is thee guy to go to! 'Davis', 3 hours he worked on my tire, chain and breaks for 10,000 areales ($5)! He asked for less, but that is not fair! Now I got new spirit! Plan for tomorrow is the tsingy gorge on the river via Pirogini (Small Canoe) and hit the road to Kirindy forest to see Fossa and Mouse Lemur at night! Ill go slow and stay safe! 'Mura-Mura'! Day 6: Started the day with sacred open tombs, with ancient skeletons and caves visit on the Piragony(small canoe) on the river around the Tsingy. Very pleasant morning as I tried not to piss off the sacred spirits, I thought to myself: 'the more pleasant the morning, the more danger ahead!' So off I go, after crossing the river for a cheaper fee (making friends pays off). The road is dreadfully rough, and I did go slow, but stayed safe I did not: I hit a small send pot that took me to a huge ditch, through me almost off the bike, after that I hit another ditch which gave me little chance to recuperate, and to top it off with a cherry, I hit another sand dune and the road took me into the sharp bushes, rocks and ditch, where I crashed hard! Aftermath: bike is bent a bit, but starts, and I have a sprain wrist and ankle, also right hip and right knee are not happy and my water bag is ripped which made everything wet and myself thirsty. I repeated religiously to thyself: 'Mura-Mura (loca for slow movements)! Slow Serge, even slower Serge, Mura-Mura...' But even that got me in trouble, because too slow is not always good, I almost ran into a 4x4 as we both met on the steep hill, then right after, I could not climb the hight and just dropped the bike! Not too bad, no major things after that, other than couple of sand pots and getting a bit lost as there's no signs, JPS, or local knowledge of direction, as I've been to more of Madagascar than anyone around the village! The coolest highlight of the day was a steep climb onto the ferry as I was a bit late it was about to leave! Not without me...my bike roared as I rammed up the narrow metal latter, everyone on the ferry stepped aside and then clapped! It was awesome! And remember my right side is in pain and half operational! Getting off of it was fun as well. I get to my destination of Kirindy Forest, which I almost decided to skip due to pain, but I'm glad for a visit as I got so lucky here it's unbelievable! I came to see Fossa and Mouse-Lemur here, and did see them, up close and personal! They are both huge rarity to see, let along this close! I also saw fork lemur and Cifaka on a night walk through the Wild Forest! In the shower I notice huge bruises and feeling of numb fingers and toes! Pain is not fun, time for some oxycondone! Will see how will I feel in the morning and what adventures tomorrow will bring. BTW: I strapped my bag with bungees so good it didn't even move an inch, just ripped, and thank got that stick got the bag and not me! Day 7: Cool sounds of forest wild life made it a pleasant morning, that is before I had to move. I have no idea how I made it so far... my ankle was bruised up and wrist blue and swollen, with about 40km to Morandava. Morning also started with bike problems... A clogged fuel injector, in the middle of the forest! So I had to clean it with an unorthodox way! With gasoline, piece of wire and fire heat! Wouala! It works... of I go to Baobabs in love and back to Morandava. Quick visit to a hospital and not so quick visit to the bank! I thought it would be easy... I give them dollars and euros and I get Areales back! Simple, right? Not! This is Madagascar, even Bankers can't count! It took them 2+ hours! Unbelievable! And the only exept small currency like 10$, 5$, 20$ and 1$ no 50's or 100s'! You'd think otherwise, right? I don't think they can count past 50, thats why... I'm happy though, at least they have a bank! Anyways, here goes my relaxing on the beach time, sweating in the bank! I met 4 Slovenians in a restaurant near my hotel, where I also found Internet, and they were nice enough to give me a ride to the sunset at the 'Allee of the Baobabs' in a jeep! Amazing experience, but spoiled by too many Chino Goat. Where did they come from... there's no way they drove here... I saw no tourist on my way to Morandava, but here they all are, in ridiculous matching baige Safari outfits and hats, with all purpose vests, although they are here to hunt a lions. They all flew in from Tana by airplane for one day to see the attraction! Lame! In between of Hospital and Bank I arranged a 5hr boat crossing for me and my bike, with a bargain price of 80,000 total! I will need it, as I'm not fit enough yet to ride the bike safely, but I do want to continue the journey! Wake up is 4 am and Port is 100m away from the hotel. Im considering to push the bike there, as I'm not dealing with at least 15 min starting ritual! It's a kick start bike by the way! A little 125cc Yamaha! I love it and I hate it, so I guess we do have a close relationship! I may even miss it. Day 8: The Port manager told me, the Captain of the boat will be leaving Morandava to Belo Sur Mer at 5:00! I made sure I got the time correct! As a normal organized white person I woke up at 4:15 to be there before departure. Well from my balcony I see that the port is Still closed, so something's ain't right! I decide to climb the fence and investigate! It is so dark at the Port that I can see stars falling, and not a soul around to be seen. So out of frustration I express myself in Russian: "Бля, Вашу мать, Пидарасы!" Out of nowhere shadows of sleepy bodies started to emerge from the boats! Felt like a scene from the 'Walking Dead', they rise all around me and start moving towards me, stumbling and speaking French, which may as well be zombie growls! 'Oui, oui!' After a bit of back and force I was told to come back at 6:00am to get a boat to village where we take another boat to Belo Sur Mer! We will see what the seas bring, as nothing here is set in stone! I hope I leave on time, and I did make a wish with some of the falling stars for a safe journey .... I walk to the already known to me Wi-Fi hot spot, to you guessed it...Facebook! And another movie scene of the morning: "You call this a knife? This is a knife!" as I took the all purpose machete with me and one dude liked my watch too much. It's been 2 hours and so colorful already! Love it. 6am, I am at the port with the bike, still no one knows what's going on, so I was thrown around to a near by village... Where boat is suppose to pick me up. My bike is on the sail, but not me. The ticket that I showed, apparently, is not it! Anyhow, to summarize I got my 80G back, I had to pay 90G for another boat + for pousse-pousse and the small canoe man to figure out what's happening and catch up with the bike. It's not the language barrier, it's extremely backwards, and people here are retardedly un-educated! Like I mentioned earlier even bankers can't count! It was fun to see some local turf arguments and how Malagasy business is conducted. Boat idea was great, execution: not so much! I would probably be better off driving to Belo Sur Mer. So here funny not so funny part: The boat with my bike had to go into the high seas, and since the tide was coming out and I was not allowed on the boat before, I had to catch up with it on an unstable canoe through the high waves, which sounded like a bad idea, and indeed it was! We flipped, got wet, and had to take another, bigger canoe! I had my backpack, so everything got wet! The reason I'm not upset and ripping my hair out right now, is because I had all electronics in the water proof cases, passport in a zip lock, money, wallet and batteries in a condom! So I was ready! We got to the boat, where my moto waited patiently, and got to Belo Sur Mer in 4 uncomfortable hours! I stayed at the place right on the beach, so I'm taking it easy! First time just relaxing! Cut my Freddy Kruger nails and sowed my ripped from the crash pants. The beach is awesome, as there's no one but villagers around building boats 18 century style. Air temp is about 80 F and water 85 F it's perfect! The water's clear green, not a lot of waves and anywhere you go it's no deeper than chest deep! I could walk for miles in that water, as with each step theres bubbles release from under the feet, it felt like walking on air under water! Very good feeling for my sore ankle! There's a flock of red and black pelicans flying around and no annoying seagulls or tourists. Just me... Perfect! Sunset, dinner, watching fishing boats coming back in. An awesome getaway secluded beach! Day 9: What an up and down day! I start my bike every morning by pushing it first down the road, but I'm at the beach, and everything around me is deep beach sand, so it took me 2+ hours to start the damn thing... finally had a local fisherman push it! The road is less treacherous, but is more difficult, or maybe I'm becoming a pro, so nothing steers me away! Road is deep sand so i can only go difficult 5km-10km /hr that is also draining my energy. It did get better the further from Bel Sur Mer I got, although not many pass here, but few Madagascar Zebu 4x4 (zebu cargo carriage), so Im constantly bombarded by thick bushes or by hidden tree stumps! Thank God for my good shoes or I'd break all of my toes! Also it is more difficult to keep up with the road, because it splits to nearby villages way too often. I had to cross one big muddy river, just recently dried, which got me all dirty and almost stuck, after an all day laundry! Then there was 3 deep rivers, on 1 of I had locals carry the bike over...then multiple ponds, on 2 of which I stalled my bike and had to sit it out, wondering if this is the place I'll be sleeping at! Not a fun feeling in the middle of between of know-where! Good thing I know my bike well now, and all the unfortune was just a big speed bump reather than a crashed day. I also used one of those not so clean rivers to filter some water as I already ran out for the day, and at one point planned to camp out! This was one extreme day as I was starting to get my survival gear together at one point. There's a reason this is one of the most dangerous roads in Madagascar. So due to multiple major obstacles of the day I'm ending up in Manja, one day behind schedule! I guess I'm using up my emergency day! I'm so hungry at this point as I made no stops, too dangerous in the sandy roads, as I won't start my bike again. I stopped at the local hotel and ordered myself a feast! Rice, chicken, soup, salad, and desert...all big portions. I ate that grilled chicken like it was made out of chocolate! A simple night to recover and move on with craziness! Day 10: I spilled too much pepper into my food perhaps for good luck this morning as it was very productive day! Also lost my lucky brand and swim suit for extra lucky charm. Today I actually gained a day back as I left at 7am on the clock and was in Andavadaoka by sunset! Long day of driving on road that seems less difficult as yesterday, or maybe I'm just getting a good hang of it! After 6 hrs on the road I stopped at Morombe, last point to get gas from here to possibly Ifaty. So I stock up with 5 liters, full tank and God hope I won't run out! Driving through Morombe was a bit nostalgic to me as it resembled Soviet Union, with an old broken down asphalt road and airport with Russian looking planes and helicopters from Afgan War era. Indeed the Soviets built it... I see multiple worn down markings of good old CCCP (USSR). After quick filling lunch and a well deserved beer Im determined to get to Andavadaoka! Nothing's stopping me now. The road is tough: sandy, then rocky, then bumpy, then no road at all. I was thrown all over the place, but never lost control. And just when I thought, 'wow all day on this madness and no crash', I hit a tree stump with my foot and metal stand peg of a bike...came out of no where, and through me right off! I never fallen this way before in my life, as I didn't know what hit me! No warning. A weird feeling, as I had my music blasting in the earphones and next thing I know I hear silence and I'm on the ground, thrown forward off and rolled! Then ringing in ears and distant, deem sound of headphones on my poor fallen metal horse. Perhaps the road has finally tired me out and got the best of me, but I pick up myself up, get the bike and move on...the sun is setting, I don't have the luxury of resting on the grass. Finally I arrived at gorgeous Andavadaoka, had fresh fish and lobster and arranged a Pirogi to a near by reef at Nosy Hoe Island! Sunset here was beautiful and even more amazing the full moon, that looks like sunset on the photo I took! Ohh, who knew that bucket of hot water would feel soo good right now... only I have sore throat coming in. Not a good timing! Day 11: The most difficult day of the trip. It started nicely, at Coco Beach hotel-restaurant in Andavadaoka, with sunrise and full moon at the same time! Magnificent! Then I took a Pirogi to the Nosy Hoe Island to snorkel at the reef and enjoy the secluded beach! And now I'm in the middle of nowhere in a survival mode! First I got lost multiple times, then the road got so tough I literally walked the bike through sand, mud and thick bushes, making my way with machete! Then, to top it off, I hit my right foot, yet again, on the sharp, hidden rock at about 15km speed, then right away mud which spins me out 180 degrees counterclockwise. No fall, but it was one hard hit. Surprisingly I didn't feel nothing too bad until I took my boots off, hours later... and that's where the pain kicked in. My right 4th small toe is broken. An open break with blood and open wound. I have no idea, why there was no pain at first. It did hurt, but kind of a distant numb pain. I did wonder: why my right foot felt wetter than the other at some point, but thought nothing of it, as I went through some water before and inevitably both shoes got wet. My initial fear was an infection in my far from civilization situation. No help...it's all on me. I take out my medical kit: chlorexedine-alcohol pads, metal sticks torn off from the TB Mask, strong tape, lidocaine SC injection, stitches, gloves and benzoin-iodine. First I had to alcohol and iodine prep the toe, numb it with lidocaine, fix the toe by straightening it and holding it straight, and stitch the open wound using one hand and teeth. Then I had to attach the metal sticks to the toe with tape, and wrap broken toe to a relatively healthy neighboring one. This was one uncomfortable and painful self procedure... in the open field, while sun was setting. Even with lidocaine it hurt and I had to use the Oxycodone pill, then Zofran pill, as I got nauseated for whatever reason. Good thing I had subscription Oxy and Zofran with me, from my past hospital stays in USA. There's no way Im getting anywhere tonight... 4 liters of water gone, most of gas gone, and no energy to go on... I set up the tent and fire just in time... Searched for water and was a success! I live to fight another day! No food, just rest! I will need to figure a way out of this tomorrow! I don't know if this was a bad idea, or I just didn't know what I'm getting into! Emergency day used up for sure! I got 1 more, I hope I won't need it! The stars are bright, the moon is not helping today, but multiple stars falling makes it a dream! P.S. The crazy night didn't end with me just falling asleep as I thought! I made myself as comfortable as possible in the one person tent with all of my stuff in it... And I hear this bubbling noise. As I debate weather it is what I'm thinking, I hear hissing of the fire. Quickly I jump out of the tent, zip it up and carry it to a safer zone...then the bike and my shoes... The moon came out, not to help, but as I suspected pulled the tide in, flooding the area I sleep in with seawater, putting out my fire. Made another, huge fire, and finally rested, warmed and dry. Day 12: Extremely difficult day # 2. Started ok...considering the circumstances. Beat up Moto and beat up me, but quitting is not an option...even if I wanted to stop, of which option I didn't even think, I had to go on. Going back is as difficult and as far as forward. Started the bike with little issues, now I had to battle deep sand road once again. I was making so much noise, digging the sand with my rear wheel, that tribal indigenes people, with primitive bows, spears and clothe, came to check me out from the forest. They kept their distance, and I didn't want to find out their intentions, even though I think it was pure curiosity. At one point I found an alternate route, where I moved pretty quick. Only problem was the bike: it kept stalling more and more. I couldn't hold the bike at one point and fell, with the bike crushing and burning my right leg. The leg was stuck, I barely got out, lifted the bike...it drove little after that, same old story: Ride stall, ride stall, then finally died on me in a sandy road, 15 km to the nearest village. I tried to push the damn thing, which was a mistake as I was loosing energy and running out of water quick. So a decision had to come: 'leave the bike!' I said my goodbyes to the left behind Yamaha and started walking with the 25 lbs of stuff on my shoulders! I walked for hours in the hot sun, deep sand, no food for 2 days and no water left! It felt like walking in the desert. The only company on the road was unpleasantly famous African flies, annoyingly hitching a ride on me. My toe was letting itself known with each step and the ankle got more and more swollen, making it impossible to walk. At some point I used my Swiss made water filter to cultivate a little bit of water out of extremely nasty looking pond, where frogs refuse to live... I was happy to drink that though, because before I pumped water from a pond that unfortunately was salt water...I had no way of knowing, it was an isolated pond far from sea... I'm in a survival mode and making mistakes, even little one's, suck. In one of the fresh water swamps, where I walked in to my knees, couple of leeches has hitched a ride on me and I was happy to see those ugly things on me. I moved the blood suckers to the swollen ankle area and let them work their magic. It worked...helped me walking, after they were done bleeding me, they popped off, and there was no swelling the next morning. Brilliant! After long day walking, with no one, but cows in sight, I finally found a rest place with water and food. Expensive with little luxury, but I had to stop here! Now I was able to explain and gather help to find and bring the motorcycle to the hotel. So me and 4 locals from nearby village went off for the search. 15 km walk back to the spot and 15 km pushing the metal horse in the dark night. I'm already exhausted, but I thought I may still use the bike if I fix it up in Toliara, nearest big city a far way from where I'm at! I need a boat to get to Salary and then Taxi Brousse to Taliara, and somehow I think I will do it...I came this far...not giving up now! Yesterday I had no energy to even type this up, fell asleep with exhaustion. And next morning my whole body ached, I can't walk strait. In total walked, carried and pushed for 60km. Extremely Tough day. Day 13: What a change of wind. Life is a tricky thing...at one moment I'm surviving in the hot African sun, in desperation and almost at the breaking point...then next thing I know, I'm at the most beautiful place in Madagascar, the one National Geographic's speaks of, bathing in the sun and warm clear green waters of Salary Bay. One of the kind place, only wooden boats, no pollution, clean white clay like soft sand and water so still, its hypnotizing. A throwback couple of centuries in time. From hell on earth to paradise. In the morning, from the nearby village, I take a Pirogi (small sail boat) after some tea and sweat buns. Took us good 3.5 hrs to Salary as wind was playing catch me game, and it was gone for a while. I never seen water so shallow and clear green so far from shore, with no waves and no wind...the reef is near by, breaking huge waves into lake like waters. So calming and beautiful. We arrive to a Bungalow in Salary where I meet Franchesko. A very heartwarming and pleasant Italian with a story of his own. We spent almost all day together talking (no English), drinking beer, playing guitar and having a delicious feast. After 2 days of no food, I gorged myself...I ate so much I'm about to pop... God Sent...I feel your prayers. I also had some time to go out past the reef and scuba dive today, and here's the candy of the day. I came looking for a Sperm Whale and I almost got what I asked for. A Great Whale Shark! Such an unbelievable, exiting and calming experience! Unreal!!! Day 14: Loosing no time I wake up early, hurry up to wait! Me and Franchesko have an awesome and filling breakfast, tea, coffee, cake и сгущенка! I was defenatly spoiled at this place and felt at home. Me and Franchesko worked on the bike a little, and it starts, but also stalls a lot. I'm not taking any chances here. Taxi Brousse to Taliara and I need to fix it up for good! 'Mama Claire' is so sweet. She prepared a basket of food for the long voyage! Cake, water, bread, honey, and most of all these things resembling Russian чебуреки! It was also fun hearing her say Che-boo-reh-kee! The Taxi Brousse is very late.. 2 hours late to be exact, but it finally came! We negotiate the price, put the Moto on the roof and I'm set. Let me tell you, this was most uncomfortable bus ride I've had in my life. We went about 2-20 km/hr on the bumpy road, getting stuck in sand a lot, with sharp bushes making their way inside the salon. It smelled like fish, as we were sitting on lobsters, calamari, fish, octopus and all sorts of sea food. My ass became a rock as there no cushion of any kind. Also we made multiple stops to load the bus with chickens, goats, speakers, chairs, tables, old bell clocks and God knows what else. I set next to a Malagasy Soldier, in the back, close to window, wearing camouflage myself, checking on my bike on the roof... So far so good, it held. To kill time I started studying my companion, the Malagasy soldier. I gave him one piece of the headphones to listen to my music. He was so happy, nudging his head like at the rock concert. So I look at his appearance: He wears a camouflage from Vietnam War era, a Kalashnikov that, I'm afraid, was made in Romania or Egypt...the sights are off and the barrel is bent...plus it's a standard UN 5.56 caliber, unlike big Russian bullets. And here's a kicker, he's wearing a red and blue jacket, with hot pink letters that say: 'Queen' on the back. I hope he doesn't know what it means, otherwise he might've not wear it. I mean, you won't see US soldier wear that...well they did get rid of 'don't ask, don't tell' policy! I had a cold from all the hot/cold/malnourished/thirsty ordeal, my twisted ankle and broken toe still bothered me, and my legs and whole body was in unbearable pain for this kind of a long trip. Mere 100km in 12+hours. It was time to take that Oxycodone I had with me! I needed it. Touch, crazy road, but I have no choice, and I'm not complaining or stressing! Or so I thought I would not... I ran out of luck and patience, as already heavily full bus has filled up even more. The walk way is filled with bags and each two sitters have 3 persons in it. Then this well fed true african lady climbed in and sat down...and of course it had to be next to me. She kept looking at me smiling and resting her head on my shoulder. Whatever was happening in her head, I let it be... So here I am: to the left I got 200+lbs limp body, under me is bags of rice/fish and metal seat, in front is my helmet and my bag, behind me someone's ass, on top is a metal rod cage that constantly banged my head, than to the right I was bombarded by bushes, branches, cold wind and leaking water, from ice to keep the fish fresh...So I put on my music to loud, zip up my hood, sun glasses and bandana to protect my face, pop rest of the Oxy, assume my twisted spine Praying Mantes position from which you can't move, so better hope its a best one you can take, block the pain, close my eyes and imaging that 'this is not happening! ' Wooo-saah'... Day 15: Woke up, found mechanic, fixed the bike, found Andreo to say hi from Franchesko, ate pizza, drank beer, used Internet: Easy!!! The problem with the bike is numerous: Chain is rusty and stretched out, battery wire warred off, axel is loose, shift gears are acting out, fuel injector completely dirty, and Piston Segimont is totally broken. I say Traces Rental company fucked me, as this is not a first time I fix the bike, with problems starting the first day! The mechanic shop has taken my bike apart and put it back together for $50...+ $50 for the Piston, and I got on my way ASAP. Ride was gorgeous, and I couldn't believe I was able to recover my little Yamaha from one of the toughest roads in the world. The only problem now, is my butt still hasn't recovered from the 12 hour metal seat torture, I was uncomfortable, and my bungee cords are lost...using rope for the bag is not the same! Made it to Isalo... Sneaked in the park for sunset. Benefits of Moto. Hotels here are expensive, but I was able to find one where boss is not around. Had bungalow keepers rent it for 1/4 the price! Good for them and good for me, as boss doesn't need to know. It's a nice one, but there's no lights and no water... It'll do! Day 16: This Travel Diary is really helping me to stay on track, as I start loosing awareness of time. Perfect get away from everything, where I had no time to miss that everything, except couple of things left behind. Morning started with Isalo national park climb. 20km here in the Rockies and 60km in the harsh sand of Salary has got me prepared for Killimanjaro for sure! Tomorrow more walking in the canyon. Isalo is a nice stop if it is on the way. I really don't recommend it as prime destination. Very expensive and touristy, as here for the first time I saw some white man and Chino Goat. I had some more unfortune with the bike: Chain is completely stretched out and I got a nail in my rear tire. More fixing is getting too cliche! Now I'm enjoying a sunset over Isalo mountains over a beer with fruits I picked off of cactus, accompanied by everlasting music of Africa. Day 17: Climbing the Grand Canyon of Madagascar... Well ok, not as big, but still, largest around here. It was a cool climb, but my beef is with the Malagasy law of mandatory guide. It was more of a hustle, as Isalo is easy to navigate by oneself, using markers or better GPS, and it would be quicker and easier. I had to drive the guide everywhere and all he did is walk in front of me, every time suggesting its all the same and let's go back. This pocket change, although expensive, does a major turn off for serious tourists. Overall, Isalo is ok place to visit, if its on the way... I wouldn't make it my prime destination...visit grand Tsiny instead... There you'll need a guide! After all the climbing I drove to Ambalavao via Anja park, gaining back a day. If I have known ahead, I'd stay in Salary bay for one more day. It was a cool mountain ride, getting chilly as the little 125cc climbed the hills. I started running out of money as there's no banks to exchange. Now true Madagascar experience kicks in: tonight I'm sleeping in a beat down motel and eating at the hole in the wall. I don't think they ever saw a white man eat there before. It is so weird in Madagascar: it's either very expensive or dirt cheap! I hope my belly can take it! Day 18: Got up lazily at 7:00, because today was suppose to be easy. Checkout Lemurs in Anja Park and drive little over 120km to Ranomafana Park. Not so. In Anja, I realized how cool the place was, I had to check out the whole thing...though time consuming, it was a must. The climb to the peak is 1km up and 3km through forest, caves and rocks. Awesome climb, as we saw multiple families of Ring Tail Lemurs getting close and personal with you. The caves, where ancient people lived, are amazing and mysterious, made out of rocks piled on top of each other. I was wondering how the whole thing held together as it felt everything must collapse any minute. Up close to the peek, where the view is breathtaking, there's ancient tombs carved in the rocks. It was fun, but dangerous climb, and well worth it! After 4.5 hrs, what was suppose to be 6 hours climb, we were done and I was off on my way, still having enough time. The problem now is the engine size. I was going ridiculously slow up the hill. On top of all, it started to get colder and sprinkle rain. Then rain got harder 20km to destination. It got dark, cold and wet quick. Very unpleasant indeed. Road has dangerous twists, and wet dark condition with limited view was not helping. With great frustration I finally arrived to the dorms, which I had all to myself, and asked for a hot bucket of water. Man it felt good. I was shivering so frigging hard, after the painful ride...not fun at all. Had a little chat with fella travelers, first time in English, and well needed rest under warm blankets. So much for African heat. Day 19: Was one tough day of riding. In the morning I went for a quick walk in the Ranomafana rain forest. It was indeed raining and cold so all the animals were hiding... I cut it short, had breakfast and saw the Comet Moth, photos of which they put on all the brochures. One Canadian traveler was looking 2 month for this thing in Madagascar, and here it is, chilling next to us, just decided to join us for breakfast. Big, cool looking moth, posing for the photos. I had a long road ahead, and rain wouldn't stop, so I took my time to prepare for the journey. Took about an hour water proofing everything, including myself and stuffing blankets under my jacket. It did help out a lot, but the ride was long and so extremely measurable on top of being dangerous. The road turns are so sharp it is almost like making a U-Turns, and behind each conner you never know what you'll see: a hog, geese, pot hole, big truck in your lane. I had limited view due to darkness, fog and water on glasses and controlling the bike on the winding muddy roads was tough as well, because my fingers, legs and face was numb from cold. This road was the death of me, as I almost gave up at Ambositra, where I stopped for 3 hot teas, hot soup and some pork chops. I drove 90km in 4 hours, it's 2pm, and there's no way I'm making another 90km of treacherous road to Antsirabe...this weather almost broke me so close to success of this trip. I toughened up and promised myself to get there one way or another. Then miraculously, the sun decided to show right as I stood out and I drove like wind to Antsirabe, making it in 2 hours and right away hitting awaited hot shower! Perfect. Day 20-21: Pretty much uneventful, I'm so used to the craziness going on on the road that it just passed by. The memories of the trip kicking in and good music had got me through 5 hours of cold (40F) mountain ride. So to summarize... Visited the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga (not worth the effort unless got extra time), returned the bike, argued with the rental place in how much they suck, got nowhere, and returned to St Joseph College to see Kasia... Was a fun to see her again after long travels. And did I mentioned she looks almost like Julia Bitkova lost sister. Next day Flying to Killimanjaro to climb almost 6km for none other reason, but to test oneself strengths and weaknesses... As if Madagascar was not enough!!! Madagascar in Summary: To do Madagascar, especially the way I did it, you have to be seasoned traveler, do some research and hope for the best... It takes a lot of strength, endurance and sheer will, to enjoy the country and get true local experience. If you think you are not ready, you probably are not. If you are a new-bee backpacker and think the World of yourself, Madagascar will take you, chew you and spit you out onto a dirty curb of slumps, leaving you with unsatisfying feeling or you'll see little to nothing of what country has to offer. Just visiting tourist spots will not give you 'Madagascar.' It takes much more, in order to get up close and personal with the culture and nature here. Unless you have a lot of money to throw around, you need every bit of traveler knowledge you've got under the belt and be able to endure bare minimum of comfort, as in mostly discomfort and frustration. Madagascar on Motorcycle for 21 Days through rough terrain and difficult to no roads on old beat up bike has tested me inside - out... I had to find the strength deep within me to go on... and myself, am surprised at oneself, and what has been achieved... It takes not just physical endurance and ability to tolerate pain, discomfort and misfortune, but perseverance, mental strength and everything else you've got as well... you will need to use it all and much more... Took me all the common travelers senesce and communication skills that I acquired prior in my World travels, because in many parts of Madagascar, far from capital and in mids' of nowhere and poverty, there's no French, just local Malagasy language and there's lack of pure common sense or basic education. Many places, if you dare to go there, there's no electricity or running water. Also places it's hard to find drinking water, so being prepared with light torch, extra batteries and water filter is a must. I used everything I brought with me... from water filter, tent to the medical kit. Durable, broken in good shoes are a must, as they will be beat up. Driving conditions are extreme. From the main roads, where cars will not hesitate to get in your 'right of way,' to avoid an Animal, zebu cart or a pot hole right in front of you ('bigger vehicle wins' concept), to difficult country seasonal roads that are meant only for off road motorcycles or 4x4's with a snorkel! Driving: you are always on edge and must pay attention at all times, stay sharp even after 8 hours on the bike, as pot holes, deep sand, rocks, birds, locus, people and animals come out of nowhere without warning! You defenatly need nerves of steel! Staying safe is a Job here! If you are adventurous and take your Moto, as I did, to where not many have went before you, one must expect at least 3-5 emergency days per 25 days, as road condition vary, and help crossing deep rivers is often needed. Now if you think you are ready: Madagascar is a Gem...a superbly unique experience that makes you feel like you've been thrown back in time in the place so unlike anything else in the World... it's mesmerizing. From unique way to travel weather via Moto, Jeep, boat or bus, friendly, heartwarming and curious people, mysterious forests, caves, rock formations, and animals, to gorgeous secluded beaches, untouched by engine boats or masses of tourists. Madagascar is a Must destination for a seasoned traveler...and I myself will come back for more adventures...more knowledgeable and more prepared. Imaging yourself standing on a 20 meter high cliff, the only way to a blue lagoon paradise of experience is taking that leap, not sure what awaits ahead or is it worth it, not sure how deep the water is, you just need to believe it is deep enough. One thing is for sure, no-one can take away the memories and satisfaction of success when you do take that step and jump! The other choice is quitting and crawling back into your 'comfort bubble'...What kind of person do you choose to be? Travel summary: 4000km by Yamaha DT 125cc. Bring your own Gas and motor oil for the road. Places of accommodation and prices range, near or in (tents, bungalows and hotels): Antananarivo 10-15$ -> Antsirabe 7-15$ -> Morandava 7-15$ -> Tsingy Bekapoka 7-100$ -> Kirindy Forest 40$ plus park and guide fees -> Belo Sur Mer 10-25$ -> Andavadaoka 20-50$ -> Tenting near villages on the way Free - 2$ -> Salary 35-120$ -> Toliara 10-15$ -> Isalo Park 10-140$ -> Ambalavao 5-30$ -> Romanafana 3$ tent - 5$ dorm. National park fees: 1 day 12$ 2 days 18$ 3 days 20$. Mandatory Guide fees range from 10-100$. Police will not bother you, with only few random checks (there's a lot of stop points on the main roads)... Usually they wave you by, or in my case I waved them off not even bothering to stop, going around the block, if you are stopped, all they check for is Vehicle papers. They don't care about nothing else, don't even bother showing passport, international drivers license or ID, or God for bid taking out wallet, flashing the money...they'll drool to find violation and held you up longer than needed. Helpful Map app: MapsWithMe worth every penny. Madagascar...Do It!